Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Injera 1


Adventures in the kitchen don’t always turn out as you expect or hope. Such was the case with my first attempt at injera, the tangy fermented Ethiopian flatbread.


Wild yeast from the air took up residence in my batter as it was supposed to.


Bubbles formed, the batter poofed up, and it smelled tangy and fermented as it was supposed to.


It held together and cooked on the skillet till bubbles appeared all over its surface as they were supposed to.


But it ended up oddly stretchy and doughy. Almost—but not quite—edible. Too much sweet rice flour. Alas! I go back to the recipe, tweak here tuck there, and try again. Next time will be better.

This is how beautiful recipes are born: through trial, error, and the washing of dishes and ovens. It’s why I love the kitchen. Every recipe is a new map to follow and you never know quite where it’ll lead you. Injera took me back to the Yeasted Bread Road. I’ve made two batches of sourdough English muffins in the last two days. One nearly worked. And my sourdough starter makes divine sourdough pancakes. My best discovery in the last week is that sourdough pancakes, when made without sugar, fried in olive oil, and dusted in sea salt, become a convincing quick skillet focaccia bread.

Who would have thought that focaccia could be a 15 minute process?

Thursday, August 11, 2011

Z Pickles

I’m late to the #pickleparty, but that’s okay.

Friends gave us some zucchinis from their garden the other day and I’ve been dying to do something fun with them. When I realized today was #pickleparty, I knew it was time for the zucchini to shine.

I’ve never pickled zucchini before. So I made this up, basing it on Gluten-free Girl’s recipe for carrot pickles. That’s kind of similar to zucchini, right?

I don’t usually post a recipe here that I haven’t tasted yet. These zucchini pickles might not be as delicious as I think they are. Alas, it’ll be a few days before I can taste them it's #pickleparty now. So I break one of my rules and post it here. I’ll let you know how they turn out.

Now? I wait.

[update] These pickles turned out pretty darn good!

Z Pickles
Makes 2 half pint jars

5oz zucchini slices, in crinkles if you like
1 cup white vinegar
½ cup white wine vinegar
1 ½ cup water
1 Tbls salt
1 tsp black peppercorns
½ tsp whole mustard seeds
1 tsp coriander seeds
3 allspice berries
2 dried tart cherries
1 tsp lemon juice

Boil your jars in your canning pot at least 10 minutes.

Combine all but the zucchini slices in a small pot and bring to a boil. Reduce to a small simmer to hold hot while you get your jars ready. Remove your hot jars from the canning water and stuff with zucchini slices, about 2 ½ ounces per jar. Pour canning liquid over the zucchini up to ¼ inch from the top. Spoon in some of the whole spices. Put 1 dried cherry in each jar. Make sure zucchini slices are completely submerged.

Screw your lids down tight, then back them off ever so slightly. Process 20 minutes. Remove from water and wait for the pop to tell you your canning has been successful. If the lids are sealed tight (no give in the center), you can keep them unrefrigerated. If not, just keep in the refrigerator and eat within about 1 month.

Wait at least 3 days to open Z Pickles.

Wednesday, August 3, 2011

Oh goodness

I have a lot to do lately: life is good.

I meant to post this week about my gluten-free chocolate madeleines, but I lost my madeleine pan last time I moved and I want to make this recipe just once more before I show it to you. It's nearly perfect.

Then I meant to post this week about the campari syrup I used when I canned Rainier cherries and how they're a little like maraschinos and a lot like a late summer evening. But work at the coffee warehouse went late and I haven't written the method yet.

Now my cousin and his girlfriend are in town from Texas and I intend to make all manner of deliciousness this week and weekend. Alas, this does not include a blog entry with a recipe! Instead, consider this a preview of good things to come.

Good Gluten-free Things in my kitchen's future:

Sourdough English Muffins
Injera
Blueberry Lemon Madeleines
Baklava
Blueberry Lime Tart
Vegan Chocolate Cherry Cake

Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Blueberry Maple Jam

I’m a blueberry fiend. Blueberry muffins, scones, bread, cookies; blueberry glaze on salmon; blueberries and sunflower seeds on a wilted green salad or scattered over a smiling plate of lime curd tart. This is a good season.

Besides, they’re blue(ish). As if nature looked around at all the luscious golds, greens, reds, and oranges and smirked: why not?

Last weekend, I bought 4 pints of this season’s ripe blue orbs from a seller at my local farmer’s market. I promised myself 1 pint to eat, 1 pint to freeze, and 2 pints for play. That’s just for this week; after next Saturday’s foray into the market, I should have enough for more eating, more freezing, and a blueberry lime tart or blueberry thyme scones. But my 2 pints this week went towards jam. I wanted to test a new idea, born out of The Flavor Bible’s conviction that maple and blueberries can sing harmonies worthy of Madama Butterfly.

A visit with my parents in Vermont last March left me with a lot of good maple syrup. One of their friends’ neighbors operates a sugaring house that he allowed us to tour while we were there. The process is fascinating! I didn’t realize until then that different grades of maple syrup reflect only qualities in the sap from the trees; there’s nothing in the process that can in any way guarantee or influence one grade or another. I already knew Grade B appealed to me most, but I learned that such dark, richly flavored syrup comes from sap either at the beginning or end of the day’s run—if it appears at all.

I used Grade B maple syrup in my jam. It isn’t the only sweetener, but gives a delightfully rich background to the blueberries. It adds the flats while lemon adds the sharps as the blueberries sing the main melody.

This recipe doesn’t need pectin; the blueberries contain enough natural pectin to make a decently firm jam by themselves, though it won’t be quite as jelled as a store-bought jam. (My vegan sister-in-law will be pleased.) Spread it over homemade oatcakes or cornbread for a heavenly breakfast.

Blueberry Maple Jam
Makes 1 pint

4 cups fresh whole blueberries
zest of 1 lemon (about 1 Tbls)
2 Tbls vanilla sugar
2 Tbls maple syrup
210g (1 cup) loosely packed dark brown sugar
85g (1/4 cup) maple syrup
2 Tbls fresh lemon juice

Combine whole blueberries, lemon zest, vanilla sugar, and 2 Tbls maple syrup in a pot and cover. Let macerate at room temperature about 2 hours. Stir twice during this time.

After 2 hours, uncover pot and add brown sugar and ¼ cup maple syrup. Mash blueberries with a potato masher until many but not all berries are broken. (You can mash more thoroughly if you like a smoother jam.) Mix well and heat over medium high heat until boiling.

Turn down heat to medium low and simmer uncovered about 35-45 minutes, stirring every few minutes. Near the end of cooking, add 2 Tbls fresh lemon juice and let it finish (about 10 minutes). You want the jam to be nicely thickened, but be careful it doesn’t stick to the bottom of the pot and burn.

When jam is done, transfer immediately to a clean and warm sterilized glass jar. Process 10 minutes for canning or store in refrigerator.


Maple syrup grading kit

Measuring the density of the syrup

Straining the impurities from the syrup

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Raspberry Multigrain Muffins


I always want a fast, healthy, delicious breakfast during the week. Do I sometimes thaw out some store-bought gluten-free bread, slather it in peanut butter, and eat while getting ready to catch my bus? Of course I do. But when I have the time, I make a week's batch of healthy, gum-free, delicious breakfast muffins. The beauty of this recipe is that it’s infinitely variable: put in whatever fruit or nuts you happen to have sitting around and watch them bake to light tender clouds of breakfast heaven.

I love teff flour. When I met Shauna Ahern a few weeks ago at the Whole Foods cooking class, she asked me what my favorite new discovery was since going gluten-free ten years ago. I had trouble answering. You see, I grew up with parents who love food. Moroccan stews, bisteeya, baklava, homemade dill bread rolls, tabooli, and hummus graced our table. I already knew what quinoa, buckwheat, and teff were. But I didn’t really know teff. I’d tasted injera, the Ethiopian flat bread, but I didn’t start to bake with teff until the last few years.

It’s delicious. The fine flour nearly melts in your mouth while it lends a hearty nutty flavor to the muffins without attempting to overpower the rest of the ingredients. These wouldn’t have the same multigrain flavor and mouthfeel without teff. So I will amend my answer of a few weeks ago. My favorite new discovery since going gluten-free is teff flour.

Did I mention it makes love to fresh raspberries? Try it.

Raspberry Multigrain Muffins
Makes 1 dozen

110g (3/4 cup) sweet rice flour
30g (1/4 cup) amaranth flour
30g (1/4 cup) teff flour
30g (1/4 cup) almond meal
40g (1/3 cup) tapioca starch
1 ½ tsp baking soda
½ tsp sea salt
30g (1/4 cup) gluten-free rolled oats
100g (1/2 cup) brown sugar
1 tsp whole chia seeds
½ cup canola oil
2 eggs
½ cup unsweetened soymilk or almond milk
1 tsp apple cider vinegar
2 tsp fresh lemon juice
1 tsp lemon zest
¾ cup fresh washed whole raspberries

Preheat oven to 375F. Grease your muffin tin with coconut oil or shortening. Bring out your eggs so they’re room temperature when you use them.

Measure dry ingredients into a large bowl (use grams if possible!). Break up baking soda and brown sugar lumps, mixing flours well. In a separate bowl or glass measuring cup, measure out liquids and lemon zest. Beat in eggs very thoroughly.

Mix wet ingredients into dry. Gently fold in fresh raspberries. Fill muffin cups nearly to the top, dust each with a few whole oats, and put them into the oven immediately. They’re rise higher the faster you’re able to do this.

Bake about 20-25 minutes or until toothpick inserted into center of a muffin comes out clean. Let cool at least 10 minutes before moving them from the tin. Store in a sealed container for 3 days at room temperature or up to 1 week in the refrigerator.

Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Beer-Battered Mesquite Onion Rings



I have a new toy: mesquite flour. A little sweet, a little nutty, and a little smoky, the moment I tasted it, I knew I’d make onion rings. Mesquite flour and onions gazed at each other across the kitchen and started to dance.

So what if they’re not the healthiest snack? I try not to deny my ingredients their whims. These make a wonderful spontaneous addition to a summer afternoon spent with friends in the sun.

This recipe is great with a yellow onion, but it’s awesome with a Walla Walla sweet onion. Try it. They’re in season right now. I also like to add a little coconut oil to my frying oil, in about a 1:4 ratio, coconut oil to canola oil. The coconut oil gives the onion rings just a hint of coconut, a sort of ghost in the background.

I’ve used Redbridge Sorghum beer with this recipe, but most recently made it with Estrella Damm Daura. (My husband surprised me with it one evening!) Any gluten-free beer will work, but Daura certainly gave the best flavor. Daura seems to be a little controversial among celiacs in the States, mainly because it’s made from barley and states on the bottle “Less Than 6 PPM Gluten.” We aren’t used to seeing gluten-free products claim to contain any amount of gluten, let alone be made from barley (usually off-limits), but the reality is that most gluten-free products are simply meeting guidelines for 20 ppm or less. Daura is significantly below that. Its brewing process strips the gluten protein from the barley, but leaves that true beer taste. Here's a review on celiac-disease.com, for more information. It’s delicious and I had no trouble whatsoever tolerating one. Individual reactions to gluten vary; however, Estrella Damm has done some very thorough research into this process to make their beer safe for celiacs. I encourage you to give it a chance.

Beer-Battered Mesquite Onion Rings
Makes about 30

1 yellow onion (Walla Walla or yellow)
60g (1/2 cup) sweet rice flour
60g (1/2 cup) mesquite flour
30g (1/4 cup) tapioca starch
30g (1/4 cup) amaranth flour, plus more as needed
1 Tbls brown sugar
1 tsp salt
dash black pepper (about 4-5 turns of a grinder)
12oz gluten-free beer
Canola and coconut oil for frying

Slice onion into 4-5 sections, depending on how thick you want the rings. Separate rings and set aside, discarding the onion center. Heat canola and coconut oil in a deep pot to medium-high heat. You'll need about 3 inches of oil.

In a medium bowl, combine all flours with sugar and salt. Gradually whisk in beer until the batter is the consistency of pancake batter. Add more amaranth flour as needed to create that consistency. The last inch or so of the beer is for the cook (you probably won’t quite use it all).

When oil is fully heated, dip onion rings in batter to coat and fry about 2 at a time, depending on the size of your pot. You don't want them to touch and stick together. Turn once while frying. Fry about 3 minutes total, or until rings are a deep golden brown. Lift out of the oil, shake off excess, and arrange on a plate covered in 1-2 paper towels. Dust with sea salt. Serve hot, while they're still crispy. The longer they sit, the more likely they are to get soggy.

Tuesday, July 5, 2011

Cherry Lime Pie (Party)

Cherry Lime Pie

I’m a sloppy cook and a risky baker. I like to follow the Creativity Trail, even if that means straying rather far from a recipe’s sure path. There’s a unique thrill to bringing ingredients together in new ways or methods. Or simply tasting something I’ve never before tasted.

Call it Kitchen Cliff-Jumping.

When I heard about Gluten-free Girl’s #pieparty, I knew I’d soon be standing in the kitchen with some grand idea, hoping it would turn out delicious. Fortunately, pies are forgiving.

Most cooks and bakers will caution you against using the pith—that white part just beneath the zest—of citrus. However, a recent recipe post to Food52.com got me thinking about its possibilities. I love pie, but so many recipes pile on sweetness and ignore the fruit within. I wanted a way to kick the cherry flavor of my pie up a notch without disguising it in sugar. The blended whole limes in this recipe give the pie a lovely tartness that buoys up the cherries. It’s almost savory, if you use two limes as I did.

I admit the tartness here is a bit much for some people. I love it, as did a number of my friends; however, not everyone was quite as enthused. If you like your pies very sweet, use one lime. If you’re adventurous, kick the flavor up a notch with two. You’ll find the pie at the bottom of the cliff is delicious.

For this pie, I used Gluten-free Girl’s recipe for pie crust. I highly recommend it.

Cherry Lime Pie
Makes 1 pie

Crust:
175g Aherns’ all-purpose flour mix (see my version below)
1/4 tsp salt
1 stick vegan butter
1/4 cup ice water, more as needed

Filling:
2 cups (320g/12oz) pitted and chopped Rainier cherries
1 nectarine, chopped
1-2 limes (100g-200g), depending on how tart you like it
1 cup (220g) white sugar
1/2 cup (90g) brown sugar
1/4 cup (30g) cornstarch
1/4 tsp allspice
1/4 tsp ginger
pinch salt

Topping:
1/2 cup (60g) gluten-free oats
1/4 cup (30g) Aherns’ all-purpose flour
3 Tbls (40g) vegan butter
1/3 cup (50g) brown sugar

If your oven takes a half hour to heat up like mine does, start it preheating now to 425F.

Sift flour and salt into food processor. Pulse twice to aerate. Cut very cold butter into small cubes. Add butter to the food processor and pulse 10 times. Add ice water and pulse 5 times. Add more ice water as needed to make the texture somewhat like cottage cheese (with large lumps of butter still throughout the dough). Form quickly into a disc, wrap in plastic, and refrigerate 30 minutes while you make the filling. For Gluten-free Girl’s full instructions, see the link here.

Chop whole lime(s), removing tops and any seeds, and whirl in blender or food processor about 2 minutes, or until it blends like a smoothie. In a large bowl, toss chopped and pitted cherries, nectarine, and lime pulp together. Add sugars, cornstarch, spices, and salt, and mix well. Set aside.

Roll out pie crust on a piece of parchment paper dusted with sweet rice flour. When it's the proper size for your pie dish, slide a cookie sheet beneath it, place your pie dish upside down on top, then flip in one smooth motion. Settle crust into pie dish, repairing as needed. Flute edges as desired. Store in fridge until ready to fill.

For the topping, mix together all ingredients and cut in cold butter until it's nice and crumbly.

Pour filling into crust, then top with crumble topping. Bake for 10 minutes at 425F, then lower heat to 375F. Bake for another 45-60 minutes, or until crust's edges are browned and pie has set. (It's okay if it's still a bit wiggly.) Cool at least 1 hour before serving so pie enough time to fully set up.

My version of Aherns’ all-purpose flour mix:
150g brown rice flour
100g sorghum flour
50g potato flour
250g sweet rice flour
50g amaranth flour
50g millet flour
150g potato starch
55g cornstarch
145g tapioca starch